1780 Silk Taffeta Zone Gown – Part Two

And here’s the inspiration gown! metpinkzoneDress (Robe a l’Anglaise)
1785-87, French
Metropolitan Museum of ArtIt’s in the collection of the Metropolitan Museum of Art and was most recently on display in the 2004 Dangerous Liaisons exhibition. It’s pink and ivory striped silk taffeta with a cutaway front to the bodice and a matching petticoat with self fabric ruched trimming. The sleeves are elbow length with a small plain cuff. My striped silk isn’t as evenly striped as the original but I’m hoping to achieve a similar look.However… as I write this entry I already find one thing I have done completely wrong! The stripe on the sleeves should be vertical – following the length of the arm – but as you’ll see in the next few photos I have cut out the sleeves with the stripe going around the arm. Luckily the sleeves are only basted together and pinned in place so this is a pretty easy fix! But I’m getting ahead of myself… here’s what I’ve gotten done today…Yesterday I redrafted my personal master pattern to create the zone/cutaway front that appears on the extant example and the paintings above. The back was lengthened and tapered  to end at a point at the lower center back. I’m using my favorite sleeve pattern (from Janet Arnold) which seems to work very well with it. I cut out the bodice front, bodice back, sleeves, and zone from the striped silk and matching pieces from white linen. I also cut a length about 120″ each for the petticoat and for the gown skirts. I still have about 2.5 yards for trimming (and new sleeves!) so no worries about fabric shortage! For the three bodice pieces, I used an underhand hemstitch to attach the lining to each individual piece and then assembled the lined pieces using a backstitch, approximately 10spi.The following photos show the steps that have been completed so far. Hopefully the gown will be almost completed tomorrow!

Here’s the lovely striped silk! This is the zone & bodice front pieces.
The lining is being attached to a bodice back piece using underhand hemstitch
This is the completed back bodice, lined and assembled.
Ahhh… the ill-fated sleeves. Oh well, I’ll cut new ones tomorrow!
The interior view of the bodice back. Nothing has been pressed yet.
Here is the completed bodice. The zone is pinned in place.
The sleeves are basted together and pinned into the armscye.

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