1780 Silk Taffeta Zone Gown – Part Three

Minor setbacks in the schedule made me lose time on this project this week but the weekend is here and I’m back at work! Plus my order from Wooded Hamlet came in so I’m completely restocked with linen tape which I’ll need for the waistband and a few other places. Today, I mostly worked on the petticoat and that still seemed to take up plenty of time. I used a length of fabric that was about 120″ long (the fabric is 45″ wide). I next cut the fabric in two length, each about 60″ long. Because the fabric is woven with the stripe on the cross grain, the selvedges will be at the waist line/hem instead of the side seams. Because of the striping pattern, there will be a seam at the center front – this will allow the stripe to look symmetrical and match (more or less) the stripe repeat of the bodice/zone. I’m sewing the seams of the petticoat (and will probably do the same for the gown skirts) using a combination stitch, approximately 5-6spi.
This is the center front seam of the petticoat. The spaced backstitch goes very quickly!
And here the waistband has been pinned to the pleated petticoat. The stripes were too irregular to make a nice pattern.
The Dutch linen tape was used for the waistband, and I used a backstitch (10-12spi) through all layers to attach it. The tape was then folded over the selvedge and whipped to the inside. A few extra stitches were used at the center back to help prevent the waistband tape from ripping away from the silk. The opening for this petticoat will be at the center back – I left that seam open for about 10″ from the top. The open edges were double-folded to the inside and hemmed, with a bar tack at the bottom of the opening to prevent the seam from ripping open. And the picture to the left is how it looks with the bodice at this point! I’ll go back and add pocket slits later… chances are I won’t be able to try this on until the last minute so I am trying to get as much done as possible without fittings!

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